Saturday, December 31, 2011

RIDGID (EMERSON) PART NUMBER 40082 CUTTER, PIPE W/P COAT ROLL

!±8± RIDGID (EMERSON) PART NUMBER 40082 CUTTER, PIPE W/P COAT ROLL

Brand : Emerson | Rate : | Price : $337.51
Post Date : Dec 31, 2011 16:30:35 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

CUTTER, PIPE W/P COAT ROLL

  • RIDGID (EMERSON) PART NUMBER
  • 40082
  • All ridgid parts ship factory direct from ridgid. If the part is on backorder we will contact you immediately
  • CUTTER, PIPE W/P COAT ROLL

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Monday, December 26, 2011

2990 Hydraulic Pipe Cutter, Part 2

The Model 2990 Hydraulic Pipe cutter from Wheeler-Rex is the solution to cutting larger diameter Cast Iron, Tile and Clay Pipe. Like the hand-operated snap cutters, hydraulic cutters are not rotated around pipe. Remotely operated hydraulic pumps provide the required pipe cutting power. A 2 inch-3 inch minimum clearance is all that is needed to wrap cutter chain around pipe. The Model 2990 comes complete with a pump, hose and case. Designed to cut Service (Std.) WT soil pipe from 2 inch to 10 inch OD; XH soil pipe from 2 inch to 8 inch OD; Cast Iron Water Class 22 from 2 inch to 6 inch OD; and Tile and Clay pipe from 2 inch to 15 inch OD.

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Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Ridgid 31642 1/4-to-2-5/8-Inch Capacity Quick Acting Tubing Cutter

!±8±Ridgid 31642 1/4-to-2-5/8-Inch Capacity Quick Acting Tubing Cutter

Brand : Ridgid
Rate :
Price : $67.32
Post Date : Dec 14, 2011 18:51:12
Usually ships in 24 hours



Quick acting design, I-beam construction, hardened wear surfaces and thrust bearing slide assemblies for smooth operation. Now includes X-CEL knob and X-CEL pin for quicker cutting and wheel replacement. Models 151 and 152 features fold-away reamers. Spare cutter wheel included in knob.

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Saturday, December 10, 2011

The Importance of Cleanliness in the Machine Shop

!±8± The Importance of Cleanliness in the Machine Shop

Many people do not realize the importance of making sure the shop is always clean. After a good while, things begin to pile up and then there almost seems no point in cleaning up. However, if cleanliness is maintained from the very start, then it is easy to clean up from a job. Cleanliness involves much more than the floors. This would include the machines, accessories for the machines and seemingly insignificant areas such as the offices and bathrooms.

So, why should the shop always be clean? First, you will save a lot of money with your tools. Tools always operate a little bit better if they are clean and greased properly. Over a period of time, a build-up of dust and particles can bring a drill press to its knees. Particles and dust can cause a drill press or a lathe to overheat to the point that the motor will simply burn up. But, not just with the machines themselves, the accessories for the machines have to be cleaned as well. The perfect example of an accessory that needs maintenance is the step drill bit. The step drill bit, especially when used on wood, can become clogged up with particles that have seared or welded onto the bit itself. This makes the bit to be extremely inaccurate and causes the bit to dull and burn up. Many people will clean the floors of the shop and they also have clean bathrooms, but it is important not to forget the seemingly insignificant pieces that need a little tender loving care.

Another forgotten accessory is the annular cutter. This marvel of ingenuity can cut a hole so precise in a pipe or really anything. The problem is that the flutes on the side become clogged with particles and debris from the material being drilled. It is extremely important to clean these flutes as good as you can. It is recommended to use a cleaning agent of some kind that will not leave a scum or film on the tool. Many tools can be burned up or lose accuracy when cleaned over and over with a soap that leaves a scum.

Some have tried certain products, but the one that works the best for cleaning drill bits, such as the annular cutter and the step drill bit, is an automotive brake parts cleaner. This cleaner is very powerful and has the potential to cause damage to your skin and eyes, so do be careful with its use. First, just spray a little of this cleaner on your part and then quickly wipe the debris off with a clean rag. It is important not to let this cleaner sit on the tool for a long period of time, as this may cause a form of erosion on the tool itself.

So, the next time it comes to clean up the shop, make sure that everything is cleaned, because if you take care of your equipment, it will take care of you. You will not be buying these little items over and over again. This may not save you a lot of time right now, but it certainly will pay off in the future.


The Importance of Cleanliness in the Machine Shop

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Thursday, December 8, 2011

How to Build a Door

!±8± How to Build a Door

Building a door can be a labor of love or just plain labor if it is to be just a utility door. A utility door is constructed to perform the simple task of keeping people in or out or somewhere. Beauty is of no concern. An architectural door on the other hand could range from a hand hammered copper finish to solid Brazilian mahogany finely carved door to a plain faced solid oak panel door. All require a great deal more labor to build than a utility door.

Let's start with building a utility door. Assuming you have a good pair of saw horses and some proper shop tools a utility door is really only a basic frame with perhaps a Luann plywood covering. Placing solid insulation inside the door makes the door a bit more stable and sound proof if the entire assembly is glued together. If your door opening is thirty six inches by eighty inches high, your finished frame will be a bit smaller by a quarter inch. Construct the frame of one and a half inch thick square boards ripped from a two by four. Try to pick the straightest pieces you can find. If you own a table saw, make lap joints for all four corners.

Lap joints will make the frame far stronger than butt joints. If no table saw is available, the use biscuits can be substituted. Glue and screw all four corners making sure the frame is square. Add a horizontal cross brace again using lap joints or biscuits. Let the assembly completely dry. Now install the Luann quarter inch plywood to one side of the frame. Glue and nail the plywood in place. Add your rigid insulation to the inside of the frame and glue that in place as well. Now add the second face to the door and set the assembly aside to dry. Using a router with a small eighth inch round over chamfer bit, put a small chamfer on all edges of the door. This prevents splintering of the plywood edges and makes opening and closing the door easier as well. Hinges come in hundreds of styles and finishes. Utility hinges should be at least three inches in length and preferably three hinges per door. Using a hinge cutter, mark the door and jamb to assure the hinge pockets line up exactly.

If you have a router bit for hinges or a good wood chisel go ahead and cut the hinge pockets. Mount your hinges and the door is ready for a lock set, a barrel bolt or whatever device you choose to keep the door closed. Total cost maybe forty dollars.

An architectural door on the other hand can costs thousands of dollars to make. I have a friend who hand hammers copper faced doors with the most intricate designs you can imagine. Those doors sell for thousands of dollars and are mostly made to order. If you are going to attempt to make an architectural door you will need some advanced wood working tools beyond the normal plane and chisel sets. You will need a blind pocket screw jig, a mortise and tenon set, a wide array of different types of planes, chisels and gouges. Multiple sets of pipe clamps and a good solid work bench are a bare minimum. The wood you select to work with must be kiln dried and have a stable basis.

Pine is easy to cut and carve but warps at the slightest hint of moisture. Oak, Cherry, Hard rock maple, mahogany and other hardwoods are harder to cut and carve but are much more stable over time. A good door will have an outer framework of solid wood pieces joined by mortise and tenon joinery. Many designs allow these joints to be joined with a single wooden peg and they last forever. Joints must be precise and tight. The interior sections of the door can be solid panels with carved faces or other ornate decorations. Panels are usually installed using a mortise slot cut into the sides of the doors exterior frame. Interior doors will have the panels simply slide into grooves in the rails and stiles with no glue or nails. This allows for expansion and contraction of the wood. Heavy wood doors will have four good solid brass, four inch ball bearing hinges. They will prevent the door from sagging over time and bowing and bending the jamb out of shape as well. Once stains and sealers have been applied, a solid wood door should last for many, many years.

Pete
Your Friendly Building Inspector
http://www.Wagsys.com
BICES-Building Inspection & Code Enforcement System Software


How to Build a Door

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Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Benefits of PEX Pipe Over Ordinary Pipes

!±8± Benefits of PEX Pipe Over Ordinary Pipes

Pex pipe is a constituent of a water supply piping that have immense advantages over ordinary metal pipes (copper, iron, lead) and stiff plastic pipes. This type of pipe is very flexible, faster to install than other types of pipes, does not corrode, let the pinholes to develop and most importantly it is resistive to chlorine and the formation of scales. Now days it has replaced various ordinary pipes like PVC known as polyvinyl chloride and CPVC which stands for chlorinated polyvinyl chloride.

A PEX piping is constructed from high concentration of polythene tubes that makes it available for different applications. The main advantage of this tube is its capacity to remain supple in cold temperature. This pipe is cheaper than other rigid pipes and requires less time to install and requires very few settings or fittings. Pex tubing pipe can be stored in spools. Also it weighs less than metal or rigid plastic tubing which makes them less expensive to ship and are very simple and easy to store. At the time of installation, this tube can be unrolled directly from the spool and requires very less fittings. This makes one to save time and money of running pipe.

This tube can be made to bend at 90 degree without the need of the elbow fittings where as other metals and plastic tubing cannot be bended at 90 degrees without using outer fittings. There are lot of connection methods that are used in installing and Pex fittings. Some methods out of these are proprietary and repair special fitting tools. Three basic tools that are required for the average crimping method when one is working with PEX are pipe cutter, a main crimping tool and de-crimping tools. And PEX tube comes in various sizes that can be used in various prominent applications.


Benefits of PEX Pipe Over Ordinary Pipes

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